The Importance of Wearing Gloves and Mittens

Make sure to have your children wear winter mittens and gloves during this harsh season. Since cold winter months make children want to indulge on playtime more than ever. But it is not always about fun especially when it is about your child’s protection. These garments should not be treated merely as accessories because these are things that will keep your child’s hand secured against damp and pointed snow particles.

Winter gloves come in different styles and designs. Also, gloves are made from various materials so it is necessary to know the climate in your town. Considering the weather condition will help you decide whether to invest on gears with thick or thin insulation. Wool which is a natural fiber is the material frequently uses to make mittens and gloves. This material is light and provides enough warmth to the hands but remember that wool is not waterproof. Synthetic materials like Thinsulate and Goretex are the materials you need if is about waterproofing. Though wool can offer heat, it is the synthetic materials that repel water and moisture. It actually depends on your child’s activities and the weather condition in your place on which gloves to choose. But gloves made from synthetic materials are oftentimes the best choice for outdoor use. But if family activities usually occur inside the house, then a pair of mittens made from wool is very useful.

Mittens and gloves have differences. Gloves have compartment for the fingers while mittens have enough space to contain the palm of the hands. Knowing this, you will realize that gloves will allow more movement. Gloves will enable your child to grip on things thus decreasing the possible of accidents during playtime. Just a simple task of turning the doorknob would be difficult for your child if mittens are used. Mittens are appropriate to use for activities that not require hand movements. Lastly, though gloves have separate compartment for every finger, it only provides little insulation compared to mittens. Popular brands of mittens available in the market include Dakine, Patagonia, Spyder, Land’s End and REI. These brands promise only high-quality products. Most consumers put their trust on these names because they are been around for many years. A pair of gloves or mittens costs around $20 to $30 depending on the label. But sometimes it is better to be not brand conscious and prioritize the quality of the gear. You want garments that would attend to your child’s need.

Tag along your child when shopping for mittens and gloves. But if it is not possible, a simple solution to find the right size is to trace the hand of your child on a paper and bring this drawing when you shop. If it is convenience that you really want, better sit in front of your desktop and search for online stores. In this way, you’ll have the best shopping experience without wasting time, effort and fuel. There are merchants in the Internet who sell high-quality gloves at bargain prices.

Source by Ade Navarro

Building a Gunite or Shotcrete Pond? Important Things You Need to Know About Gunite and Shotcrete

You’re probably planning a Shotcrete or Gunite pond, but I bet you do not know what Shotcrete and Gunite are. Come on. Take a guess. If you answered, a sprayed concrete, that would be incorrect. In reality, Shotcrete is an all-inclusive term used for describing the process of spraying concrete or mortar through either a wet or dry application technique.

Gunite, on the other hand refers only to the dry-mix process in which the dry cementitious mixture is blown through a hose to the nozzle, where the water is injected immediately prior to application. So in essence, what you end up with is still concrete. The only real difference is how it was just applied.

When people think of concrete, they think of concrete that is poured into forms that have steel rebar and mesh reinforcement, which is then allowed to set up and cure. The Shotcrete or Gunite process allows the concrete to be sprayed in place instead.

Shotcrete is a wet spray application, meaning that the concrete mixture is blended with water and pushed through the application hose pneumatically where it is applied to the job site. Gunite consists of a dry mixture that is pushed through the hose pneumatically until it gets to the gun nozzle, at which point water is injected into the mixture where it is mixed as it hits the job site.

In the end, one could say that besides a few minor differences, Shotcrete and Gunite work the same. Small differences such as how each material might be applied to a vertical or overhang area are about all you’ll find.

Now you may have also been thinking that Shotcrete or Gunite were actually waterproof after they have been sprayed and cured. This is a misconception. Remember when I said that you’re still spraying concrete? Concrete is not waterproof either. This is why, when building a pond, you need to seal the inside of the concrete shell.

The positive side of this is that because it is concrete, using the right waterproofing coating means you’ll not have to use a primer in order to get it to stick. Just prepare the surface as you would any concrete and you’ll be in business.

Keep in mind though, that because it is normal concrete, it will have to cure for a minimum of 28 days just like any other concrete. During the hydration process, the typical precautions of keeping the concrete moist are very important in order to minimize shrinkage.

One of the things you’ll find that is a plus for Shotcrete or Gunite is that because it is sprayed, a lot more of the air is removed from the over-all product. This means that the concrete is stronger than a typical poured type of concrete. Poured concrete might have a compressive strength of 2500 psi where Shotcrete or Gunite average out at near 4000+ psi.

The draw back with that is minor, only being air entrainment within the concrete. Air entrainment in the concrete is good for freeze/thaw cycles. During a freeze for instance, water is pushed into the concrete and can literally expand within the air pockets meaning the concrete will have a better chance at withstanding cracking.

A good spray contractor will know this and attempt to entrain at the proper percentage so as to accommodate for freeze/thaw when the scenario calls for it. This is referred to as the spacing factor.

One other thing you might ask your contractor about is whether or not your application could benefit from the Shotcrete or Gunite being partly composed of silica fume. Silica fume makes the Shotcrete or Gunite stickier and aids in the application process where a quicker build up is needed.

Finally, you should take care when deciding upon a contractor to apply your Shotcrete or Gunite. Here are some questions to ask both yourself and the contractor.

  • Does the contractor have a good track record of shooting ponds with the wet method? Dry method?
  • How many ponds have they completed with the wet method? Dry method?
  • Can you provide a list of past completed jobs?
  • How do they plan to incorporate the trimmed concrete into the shell? (The rebound and the trimmed concrete play a key role in the final quality of the pond shell.)
  • What concrete mix design do they plan to use?

Source by Butch Kuhl

Detecting and Correcting Bouncy, Sloping and Wavy Floors

There can be several reasons why the floors above a crawl space foundation seem bouncy, out of level or wavy. Floors that sag or bounce are not only a huge nuisance to homeowners; but can also leave homeowners wondering if there’s a possible safety issue, or an expensive structural repair lurking in the future.

Bouncy Floors

If you have bouncy floors in your home, you can usually detect this condition simply by walking across the floor in question. You can literally feel the floor shake or bounce up and down. Sometimes when walking across a bouncy floor you’ll even hear it squeak or make other noises. In other cases, you’ll notice that items in cabinets or on nearby tables or countertops will start to shake.

Obviously, these telltale signs of flawed floors are upsetting. Any homeowner who encounters this problem will want to know what is causing bouncy floors, what can be done to correct the problem, and how much this repair work will cost.

The good news is that an experienced foundation repair contractor will usually be able to provide succinct answers to the above-mentioned questions. Bouncy floors are sometimes due to undersized floor joists -a miscalculation that occurred when the house was built.

In other cases, the beam that provides mid-span support for the joists on the first floor may have settled or bent downward due to support posts that have deteriorated or shifted. After all, many older homes were built with wood support posts in the crawl space or basement rather than steel posts. Wood posts are vulnerable to rot and insect attacks.

Fortunately, these causes of bouncy floors can be corrected without major disruptions to the living space. An experienced foundation repair contractor will have to tools and materials to reinforce undersized joists and elevate a settled mid-span beam back to its original position, this time installing steel columns that won’t succumb to rot or insect attack.

Sloping Floors

Sloping floors can be more difficult to detect in a home than bouncy floors. Bouncy floors have a distinctive spongy feel underfoot, and can even creak or make other noises, while sloping floors can still feel solid. If you suspect that the floor in a room slopes, it’s easy enough to test your theory. Place a small to medium-sized marble on what you suspect to be the “high” side of the floor and see if it rolls downward.

A sloping floor can be caused by the same conditions that turn a stiff floor into a bouncy one– even though one feels solid while the other doesn’t. When the floor slopes toward the center of the house, a foundation repair specialist will probably suspect the center beam in the crawl space (or basement).

If the floor slopes downward as you move toward an exterior wall of the house, a couple of conditions may be causing the problem. The ends of the floor joists and rim joist along this side of the house may have rotted and collapsed, causing the floor to sink down. Or the foundation wall may have settled, causing the entire side of the house to settle. In either case, an expert contractor will have to conduct the repairs.

Wavy Floors

Unfortunately, wavy floors can be more difficult to diagnose and correct. Sometimes wood flooring (like common oak strip flooring, for example) can swell and buckle if it gets wet because of a leak or spill. In other cases, it’s possible for a wood floor to become uneven or wavy because the flooring itself hasn’t been properly installed.

Wavy flooring can be caused by problems with the beam that provides mid-span support beneath the floor joists on the first floor. If there’s just a small section of the floor that is uneven, the problem can sometimes be traced to a single joist that has a defect such as a crack or knot which causes the joist to bow up or down.

Professional solutions

Floors that sag, bounce, or present a wavy, uneven surface affect a home’s appearance, comfort, safety and resale value. That’s why these problems should be addressed sooner rather than later. An experienced foundation repair contractor is most likely to arrive at an accurate diagnosis of unstable floor problems, and provide the most successful, long-lasting solutions to these problems.

Source by Samantha Walton

Crawl Space Ventilation – Vents Below Grade

With an unconditioned crawl space (usually dirt covered with a plastic vapor barrier and open foundation vents) a home inspector does not want to see the vents below the level of the soil. When vents are below grade, rain and runoff water are likely to enter the crawl space — which can attract wood destroying organisms or lead to fungal issues such as rot or mold.

If vents are far enough below grade, the dirt can block the openings so air will not circulate. The vents will not ventilate! When home inspectors see this condition, if vents cannot be fixed by removing or grading soil, the inspector will probably recommend that the client put in vent wells. The most simple vent wells consist of frames made from pressure-treated lumber. However, metal or plastic vent wells, specially made for the purpose, can be purchased at building supply stores. The well is dug into the soil, in front of the vent and deeper than the vent, so there is an opening in front of and below the vent. Personally, I like to see the well dug a few inches deeper than the vent, then the space filled with pea gravel up until about 2″ below the vent.

Another issue is that often people block the vents in an unconditioned crawl space. Although this is sometimes justified in winter, when there is a danger to pipes from severe temperatures, in Washington State blocked vents in an unconditioned crawl space are defined by the Washington State Department of Agriculture as conducive to attracting wood destroying organisms. A state licensed structural pest inspector should, in most cases, site blocked vents as a conducive condition. In the Pacific Northwest, if pipes are wrapped, foundation vents can be left open year-round most years. This basic information might not apply in severe climates or in partially heated or “conditioned” crawl spaces.

Source by Steven L. Smith

Roof Shingles – How to Eliminate Shiners!

If you’re looking for “roof shingles – how to” information, you’ve come to the right place. One key to both speed and quality is to avoid shiners.

“Shiners” are nails which have been installed too low and show on the exposed portion of the shingle. They are a common cause of leaks on shingle roofs that have been installed with a nail gun.

The best way to avoid them is to focus right on the nail line while you are nailing. When you concentrate on that line, your brain and arm will be on “auto-pilot” putting the nails in the right place.

You’ll find that when you do get one, it’s because you let your concentration slip. Eventually, focusing on the nail line becomes a habit that you won’t have to work at.

Roof Shingles – How to Fix the Few Shiners You Do Get!

Some roofers fix all of these problems at the end of the job, but it’s better to fix them as they occur. There are two reasons for this;

First off, if you wait until the end of the job, you will probably miss some… and they can come back to haunt you later.

Also, they’re a hassle to fix. It breaks up your rhythm and slows you down. If you have to stop and fix every one as you go, you will find yourself being a lot more careful where you put those nails.

The best way to fix one of these potential leaks is to pull the nail, lift the shingle and seal the hole with flashing cement. A little cement will ooze out of the hole, but this can be masked with a few granules to make an invisible and permanent repair.

Source by John C. Bishop

Cellar Conversion – How to Convert an Under Pavement Arched Vault Into Useful Living Space

Unlike a lot of cellars, pavement vaults only have their back wall built into the ground but they also have ground over their roof. Consequently most water ingress occurs as percolation of rainwater through the brickwork at a high level, usually the arched roof itself. The structures have very little in the way of foundations and do not have the weight of the house pressing down on them so they move differentially to the house and are also subject to a lot of vibration from traffic. Any attempt at using a rigid bonded coating to hold water back is doomed to failure due to this differential movement, vibration and the inherently weak tensile strength of the brickwork from which they are most usually constructed.

The best method that will provide reliability over time is the drained cavity method, although there are some differences between the details of a drained cavity system in a vault as compared with a regular cellar with all vertical walls that is under a house. The main difference stems from the fact that water ingressing from the arch itself will drip onto the membrane and, if the system is installed correctly, run down on the back surface of the membrane rather than running down the surface of the brick wall behind the membrane as is the case in most other cellar conversions. This truly tests the perfection of each of the sealed fixings that have to be used to hold the membrane in place. Furthermore, the use of a semi-rigid membrane is necessary as is the presence of dimples on the membrane as this example of a drained cavity system is one in which the space between the dimples is truly the means of draining the water down.

Basically this membrane behaves like a big umbrella, shedding water to the sides and thus protecting the space underneath. It is normally fixed to the internal masonry surface with plastic fixings, a bit like over sized drawing pins and the hole where the pike of the pin goes through the membrane is sealed with butyl rope or other material, which will be supplied by the specialist supplier of the system.

When the water reaches the bottom of the membrane it is best to have an under floor channeling system that acts a bit like a guttering system, this will run around the whole perimeter of the vault and discharge into a sump chamber. In many cases a perforated sump chamber will act as a soak-away especially if the ground is absorbant and the water ingress is slight – which it usually is. However the inclusion of an automatic submersible pump in the sump chamber will add reliability in the eventuality of a larger rate or water ingress or the ground becoming waterlogged itself.

To waterproof the floor, another similar membrane can be used which will require a concrete screed or board overlay. This will consume a few inches of headroom which is often at a premium. The use of a plastic floor tile system can be used to provide the waterproofing and floor finish in one go thus saving headroom, but such systems are a little harder to find. If more headroom is required the whole process will have to be preceded with an underpinning operation which will add significantly to the cost, but is non-the less a possibility. Some people consider joining two adjacent vaults together but this is a tricky process and will require the services of a structural engineer.

As regards finishing works, the vault could be lined with plasterboard supported by timber battens, which are in turn fixed into the same fixings that hold the membrane in place. Alternatively the membrane can be rendered over using a special type of plaster such as whitewall renovating plaster. If rendering a mesh will be required to form a key, this can be ribbed expanded metal lath of you can get a membrane with a mesh pre-attached.

If it is a little difficult to visualize the process, there is a three dimensional animated diagram of the vault cellar conversion process on our website.

Source by Raymond Foulkes

Efflorescence on Exterior Concrete Wall

Efflorescence is a very common problem with poured concrete foundations. The white powdery substance you see along the outside of your basement wall is efflorescence and indicates moisture is in contact with the masonry. Don’t worry this unattractive build up isn’t hazardous; efflorescence is simply salt and can be easily removed with efflorescence removers or other cleaning techniques.

This does not necessarily mean that intrusion will occur. We recommend checking gutters, downspout drain lines for proper operation. Efflorescence is found on many homes without water intrusion occurring inside the home. But, it should alert you to the possibility that future steps may be needed.

What is happening, water infiltrates the block or the concrete wall and as water evaporates from the surface the mineral deposits are left behind in the form of white substance. Although efflorescence is generally a visual problem, if the efflorescence crystals grow inside and under the surface, it can cause spalling of the foundation wall, which is when the surface peels, pops out or flakes off. The salt pushes from the inside out and can eventually cause crumbling and deterioration.

Efflorescence, water-soluble salts come from many possible sources. First of all; there must be water present to dissolve and transport the salts. Groundwater is often a source of efflorescence. For water to carry or move the salts to the surface there must be channels through which to move and migrate. The more dense the material more difficult for the water to transport salts to the surface. On the other hand, the more porous the material, the greater the ease with which salts are transported and deposited. Salt-bearing water, on reaching the surface of a structure, air evaporates to deposit the salt.

When humidity is low, the water may evaporate before reaching the surface of the structure, leaving the salt deposit beneath the surface, and unseen. When the humidity is high, water evaporation is slower allowing more opportunity for salted to be deposited.

Since humidity has a definite effect on whether or not the salts appear, it can be assumed that efflores­cence is a seasonal problem. The intensity of efflorescence increases after rainy winter seasons, de­creases in spring, and by summer has practically disappeared. This cycle may repeat for months or years, but generally the intensity of the efflorescence decreases in all but very extreme cases, and by about the third year it should be practically eliminated.

Again I repeat, this does not necessarily mean that intrusion will occur. Checking the exterior for grade issues and low spots, ensuring the proper operation of downspouts and that water is being directed away from the foundation may help prevent efflorescence on the exterior of your foundation wall.

Source by Rick Deckert

Foundation Wall Cracks, Cause, Effect and Solution

There are no perfect houses and that would include its foundation. Whether you have a new home or one that’s a hundred years old, house foundations crack. Houses shift and settle after construction. Houses will have cracks in either the cosmetic finishes or structural components. Most of these cracks have no structural significance. The common types of cracks in foundation walls will include;

Vertical (or near vertical) cracks; Just because a wall has cracked doesn’t mean that it has failed or that corrective action is required. If the crack is narrow (1/8 inch or less), is nearly vertical, has no lateral separation between the adjacent portions of the wall, and no water is leaking through the crack, no action generally is required. This is a shrinkage crack and occurs as moisture in the wall evaporates causing the wall to shrink into the voids created by the escaping water. This type of crack is controlled, or minimized but not eliminated by, using horizontal reinforcement steel, which helps distribute the stresses in the wall. If horizontal steel is present, you are more likely to get several very small cracks instead of one or two much wider cracks. Another method of limiting shrinkage cracks is to control the amount of water used in the concrete mix.

Reentrant Cracks; Whenever a concrete element has a sharp angle, there is a concentration of stress. This almost always results in a crack called a reentrant crack that emanates from the inside corner. It may be vertical, horizontal, or diagonal as it exits the corner. This phenomenon exists in nearly all materials. Round openings can dissipate the stress but this is not practical in concrete wall construction. The typical remedy to reduce this type of crack is the placement of steel reinforcement in the corners. It will not eliminate these crack but keep they tight and controlled.

Horizontal cracks; Horizontal cracks require greater scrutiny. Most residential foundation walls are designed to span from the footing or floor slab to the connection of the floor structure above. An 8-inch concrete wall in normal soil conditions usually is strong enough to withstand the forces exerted on the wall with no vertical reinforcement. Exceptions include areas with high ground water conditions or in expansive soil conditions. If there is vertical reinforcement in the wall, a horizontal crack is probably not a concern. An expert should be consulted when a horizontal crack appears to evaluate whether there is a structural risk.

These cracks typically result from one or more of the following;

1. Soil settlement beneath the footing resulting in downward movement of the footing, and shifting is common to most newly constructed homes.

2. Alteration of the local water table whenever a new home is built. Specifically, the soil beneath the home dries; the resultant soil shrinkage causes minor settlement of the footing which can result in hairline cracking in the foundation walls.

3. A new home, without of furniture and effects, does not impose a significant load on the foundation. Once all of your furniture and appliances are moved in, the weight borne by the foundation, and the structure in general, increases and causes some flexing (or movement) of structural members throughout the building. This increased load can cause hairline cracks in the foundation.

4. Drying shrinkage. While poured concrete is dries and hardens, it will shrink. The major factor influencing drying shrinkage is the total water content of the concrete. As the water content in poured concrete increases, the amount of shrinkage increases. Significant increases in the sand content and significant reductions in the size of the coarse aggregate used in poured concrete increase shrinkage because total water content is increased and smaller size coarse aggregate provide less internal resistance to shrinkage.

5. Thermal expansion and contraction of concrete. Concrete poured during high daytime temperatures will contract as it cools during the night, this can be sufficient enough to cause cracking if the concrete is restrained.

6. Restraint; The restriction of free movement of fresh or hardened concrete subsequent to the completion of placing (pouring of concrete) in formwork or within an otherwise confined space; restraint can be internal or external and may act in one or more directions.

7. Subgrade settlement or movement. The dropping of soil or the footing due to their mass, the loads imposed on them, or shrinkage or displacement of the underlying support.

Most foundation cracks are minor and insignificant; they are common to both poured concrete and block foundations. Structural cracks (horizontal) in residential foundations are usually the result of settlement and/or horizontal loading. They can be the result of hydrostatic pressure or the use of heavy equipment next to the foundation. The possible implication of cracks in your foundation is moisture penetration, moisture that can ruin finished wall coverings, floor coverings and furniture.

Water will leak through a foundation crack if there is enough hydrostatic pressure to force water through the crack. If a waterproofing system was installed during construction, the basement may not leak even if there is a large crack. Keep in mind that waterproofing is not the same as damp-proofing. Installing an exterior waterproofing system after the wall has been backfilled can be cost prohibitive. The best solution is the use of an epoxy injection system. It will adhere to the side of the cracks and actually may strengthen the wall. These systems can be DIY but is it highly recommended that they be applied by a professional.

If you take anything away from this article…take this. All foundations crack, your foundation, my foundation and most of these cracks are insignificant and have no structural implications. If you do have a concern about the size and type of crack call a professional to evaluate.

Source by Rick Deckert

Why You Shouldn’t DIY – Basement Underpinning

From the time when prehistoric man first started using stone tools in his daily life doing it yourself was a way of life. Over the centuries, as building techniques developed to become more complex and simple tools have evolved into sophisticated machines, the job of the amateur handyman has become quite difficult. Usually in an effort to cut costs on a home improvement project, the modern do-it-yourself-er has his/her hands full with building codes, user manuals, and building instructions. Having said that, most home improvement projects are not only doable, but can arguably be done better if you are diligent enough and prepared to work. Other projects, however, are much too complicated for the average construction enthusiast and should be left solely to the professionals. Basement underpinning is such a project.

What is it that sets basement underpinning apart from other home improvement projects you ask? To answer that question in a nutshell, pretty much everything. There is no single thing about lowering your basement that is overwhelming. Taken separately, all aspects of the job are manageable and can be handled. However, collectively the process of lowering a basement to get some extra head space can become quite a headache.

Before you can even get started with any manual labor you will need to get a building permit. The nature of the project is such that if done incorrectly you can end up losing your home altogether. This is because when a home is built it is engineered to withstand the forces of nature that act upon it. Beyond your basement walls is not just soil, its pressure. If you go into this project without knowing where to dig, how to dig and how much to dig, soon enough your foundation walls will slide out from beneath your main floor, and your kitchen will be in your basement. To make sure that your basement can even be lowered, you will need to hire an engineer. You can always shop around and find a good deal, or maybe you have a friend who can do the plans for you, however most often than not a basement underpinning contractor will be able to provide engineering services to you at a discounted price.

Once you have your building permit you can get started. Oh wait, you don’t have any of the necessary equipment. Consider this, to dismantle your current concrete floor you will need the following: a conveyor belt system, a waste bin or two or three, a power generator, and jack hammer to connect to it. Although not impossible to obtain, the rental rates for you will be far higher than for a contractor, and chances are the contractor you choose for basement underpinning will already have these tools in their inventory.

Getting the right tools, is very much an issue of patience and organization. Once you have them, however, everything becomes a lot more serious. The tools that you will be working with when lowering your basement are power tools – and yes, they are powerful. Your DIY basement underpinning project may fall apart for the very simple reason that you cannot handle the jack hammer. We’ll give you the benefit of the doubt however. After all, if you are even thinking of attempting such an ambitious project on your own means that you are an accomplished handyman with at least some construction know how.

Now that you have everything you need, and you know how to use all the tools take the process into consideration. This is your first time attempting such a project. Your knowledge is likely limited to books and what’s even more likely the internet. If you lowering your basement by following the steps in a “How to” guide book for basement underpinning you are probably better off than if you were following the advice of the internet. Beware of hinging the success of your project on the shaky words found on the internet; just like your foundation with an insufficient angle of repose, it may slide out from beneath you. Professionals who make a living doing basement underpinning know the ins and out of their trade, have come face to face with various difficulties, and have the know-how to get out of them.

Finally, if the above reasons don’t quell your thirst for extraordinary home improvement exploits think of time. Chances are that you work a full time job, and will be attempting to do this project in your spare time. This simple fact will turn a one week project into a one month odyssey filled with rental fees and unexpected hardships. There is nothing wrong with doing it yourself, but like everything in life, it should be approached with moderation.

Source by Nick J Patel

Foundation Repair – Is Your Home’s Foundation Moving? – 11 Ways to Know If Your House is Safe

The sooner you fix a moving foundation, the less damage it will cause. Sometimes these problems are hard to diagnose and foundation repairs many times should be left to the professionals.

Check off which symptoms you have below. Some obvious foundation movement indicators are:

1. Are there cracks in your foundation?

2. Do you have bulging concrete walls?

3. Do you suspect any type of foundation movement?

Any or all of those above can be cause for alarm!

4. Do you have any floor and wall cracks?

5. Do you notice any doors that bind and do not open or close correctly?

6. Do you have any floors that are not level? Do your windows bind or do not open or close correctly?

7. Is there any water intrusion in your home?

8. Do you have any mold growth?

9. Are there cracks in your exterior brick?

10. Do you have any cracks in your beams and joists?

11. Are there any separations of wood either on the interior or exterior of your home?

If you feel you need residential foundation repairs, — you MUST act quickly! Things could be so much worse if you wait. It isn’t worth risking your life as well as the lives of your family members. This type of problem isn’t for the “Do It Yourselfers” either. You are going to want a reputable experienced company. Many times a husband or a relative mean well and think they can go ahead and try to resolve it on their own. Say NO!

Source by Jenn Stevens